A TORTURED CHILD

This may be kind of gruesome, but I was walking through downtown Guatemala, which is dotted everywhere with brass plaques commemorating one or another martyr of a myriad revolutions and targeted killings, when I came across this particular one, which reads "I only wanted to be a child, but they didn't let me."

Well, turns out it commemorates a child, one of these poor street-living children, who was wantonly killed by police in the early 1990s. The whole story is here: Remembering a tortured child who lived in the streets of Guatemala. I believe this child's memory should be honored, and so I post it so that others may know of him.

Moving on.

I am nursing a) a bad-ass, bad-ass sunburn and b) a similarly bad-ass cold. The sunburn is courtesy of staying under the sweltering sun during the yearly Huelga de Dolores satyrical and radical student carnival, a 112-year-old tradition, performed by students of the local state university (USAC).

During this carnival they pretty much attack all politicians, as well as USAC or church officials of note, as well as "personalities" such as Uncle Sam, Mickey Mouse and others of celebrity nature. Because I am not well-immersed in local politics, there is a lot that went way over my head. Still, I found it, same as last year, most enjoyable. There are music performances, lots of satirical speeches, lots of entertainment in general.

There was plenty of uniformed and undercover police, and the students have cleaned up their act mightily from previous years, or so I am told. Be it as it may, I never once felt unsafe, and there were plenty of clearly wealthier professional types there with their children, as well as grandmothers with their grandkids, although most of the crowd were either students or working class people.

Following, some of the photos (some of the photos are very profane, so be forewarned):

Standard decrying the corrupting influence of the First Lady over the President
The skeleton attacking them is the "mascot" for the USAC students, La Chalana
BTW, a lot of children had a face-painting of La Chalana on their cheeks or foreheads, showing that the Huelga tradition passes on from grandparents to children and grandchildren

Interesting sign from the School of Engineering proclaiming women's rights
and protesting violence against women

A student leader in front of the National Palace giving a speech directly to the Presidential balcony, berating the Vice-president, who was in attendance. Great clamoring and support from the public.

Vice-president in the balcony with his entourage listens to the speech. To his credit, he did laugh good-naturedly, even though they were calling him a S.O.B. with great chorus from the thousands in the crowd. He is also a USAC alumni, so he likes the carnivalesque parade.

The old gentleman in the parade shows how even old alumni always return to celebrate and participate in the USAC yearly event.

One of the hundreds of "characters" in the parade, this one a Roman soldier as a parody of the upcoming Holy Week processions (which feature Roman soldiers among other types of characters, too)

Students dressed as Holy Week penitents carrying a parody of religious procession

Military flogging Jesus, symbolism is self-explanatory, I'm sure

This float depicts former president Portillo, also known popularly as "Pollo Ronco" (Hoarse-voiced Chicken), mounted over an airplane en route to his USA extradition

Characters dressed as the president of Guatemala and some other politicos

Honoring USAC students slain during the years of the civil war in Guatemala

A Pope-like? Jesus-like? character and the skeleton behind is "La Chalana"

A float with a depiction of the First Lady and somebody else, perhaps the President

This whole float was about sex ed in public schools, a controversial issue here

Float with an image of the President of Guatemala flogged/ridden by Mickey Mouse ... I think!

Wouldn't be the Huelga without the ubiquitous image of El Che

I love what this street vendor did with her fresh mangoes. The seems to have made a ribbon out of each mango, wrapped around a stick. Great idea for a fruit salad!

These guys were tourists, going like "What's going on here?" but enjoying it

I just liked this young woman's attire

Another float ... don't really know what it means ...

Procession-like float with a somber La Chalana on top which was getting a lot of cheers

I really liked this cardboard sculpture on one of the floats

Anyhow, there were close to 200 photos which I uploaded on Flickr but cannot possibly place them all here. You will find them if you go to Flickr and write "Huelga de Dolores 2010" in the search box.

In general, if you are in Guate during a week or so previous to Easter, you might like to check out this yearly parade. Like I said, it is a 112 year old tradition, and in this very traditional society, the whole thing is chock-full of history and lore. Lots of songs and music, the crowd cheers like crazy, etc. A lot of the symbolism I don't get, but whatever I did get I enjoyed--I enjoyed even the stuff that went over my head! It is just a fun thing to do.

Mothers with their kids at La Huelga

The public was full of grandparents, parents and children, and there were LOTS of security. I never felt at risk. I wouldn't take very small children just because of the throngs of people, and wear tons of sunblock ... I did not and got so sunburned I look like a leper. I would not recommend, however, to come with lots of cash or expensive jewelry, since these crowds tend to be rife with pick-pockets, police security regardless.

This guy was selling some surprisingly cool hats!

The parade lasts around 6 to 8 hours and you have plenty of time to do some shopping in the mercado central or among the street vendors ... some had some unexpectedly interesting wares ... have a meal and a cold drink at any of the surrounding restaurants and pubs... or street vendors, if you want to risk it ... you know, just a day in the life!

Meanwhile, it is Passover and we remembered at the very last minute! Still managed to make it to the kosher grocery store to get some Matzos before they closed for the week! So, it's matzo "bread" with chirmol salsa and queso you all!

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In the historic center of Guatemala City

I ACTUALLY SLEPT THROUGH IT ALL.

Holy Week flower arrangements on windows
Historic Center, Guatemala City

Well, I ended up being interviewed as a guest on Inside Guatemala in the Antigua Channel, a national cable TV channel owned by some big local media mahers. Interviewed alongside moi was Architect R. Rodriguez, the Director of the Historic Center Office of the City of Guatemala.

The topic was the Historic Center today and tomorrow. As for me, I was there mainly due to my blog in Spanish, which gets a few hundred hits daily and has become the "go to" site for information on all things happening downtown.

Sadly, I didn't get to watch myself on TV because it was aired Sunday at 9 p.m. and I was sleeping off a whole weekend of partying in Antigua, but many friends contacted me to tell me it went very well. Great. My 24 mins. of fame have come and gone and I was sound asleep ...

Hotel Porta in Antigua

Will have to wait for a rerun.

We were invited to several events in Antigua, the main ones being a party Saturday night to kick-off a new loft development (more ritzy stuff for retired US expats, I guess, the place is starting to feel like Sun City, Arizona or Boca Raton, Florida). And also a big wedding the following day.

So we stayed at the Hotel Porta, which is really VERY nice. They had a special rate of around US$115 per night for the upcoming wedding. No idea what their regular rate is, maybe like US$150. They had a "Magic Bar" thing at night, at the Porta Hotel bar, with a magician going from table to table performing very clever tricks. I LOVE magic tricks, so I found it entertaining.

Rum Bar in Antigua

Saturday night, after the kick-off party--we left because, no disrespect or anything, but it was full of people in their 60s, which seems to be the target market for all new developments in Antigua, and since I am not into the baby boomer "retiree" scene ... we ended up going to Rum Bar, a New Orlean-ish expat enclave close to Hotel Porta, in Antigua.

View from garden, Antigua house

I didn't take my camera that night, so borrowed a photo from the Internet, but it is very nice inside, with an indoor bar, an outdoor garden bar, a guy singing New Orleans blues, and a menu which features stuff like jambalaya and po-boys. The po-boy isn't made with "for-real" po-boy bread but it was good enough and my husband really liked the quesadillas.

Good music, pleasant crowd, inexpensive and tasty food, can't complain. I had a good time and will probably return. It is somewhat amusing that the bar shares space with a Spanish school and a Yoga studio. Students walk blissed out from yoga or out of class straight into a bar ... not too bad a way to learn a language!

Pool covered in rose petals at house in Antigua

The wedding was in a mansion housed in a 16th Century convent or monastery, adjacent to one of them romantic old churches crumbling in ruins.

It. is. AMAZING.

All the Antigua house photos in this post are of that house. It is huge, with thick stone walls, vast gardens and gigantic trees. Decorated beautifully down to its last details, the view of the church ruins next door and of the volcanoes is breathtaking and there is a huge pool where the original orchard used to be.

Very cool bird's nest hanging from roof in
a porch of Antigua house

The party lasted pretty much from noon till sundown. We left at sundown and on our way back to the city stopped at a Biker's Bar called ... Biker's Bar. We had passed by it several times in the last months, so finally decided to check it out. The bar is VERY cool, it has a wonderful view of the city from up high in the mountain and the menu offers iguana, venison, rabbit, and wild boar. All coal-roasted or coal-barbequed or whatever you want to call it.

Original monastery dining room at Antigua house
(now the owner's library)

We were absolutely stuffed from the wedding party, where I gorged on the fresh sushi! Sushi in Guate is, as a rule, not very good, so when I find decent sushi, I definitely take advantage of the situation. But next time around, I'll have the iguana at Biker's Bar. I have tried iguana before and must confess I liked it. Twas a while back, though, I'd have to try it again to ascertain if I still do. Or not.

Either way, I will post pictures whenever I do!

Biker's Bar in San Lucas, on the road to Antigua

Today at had breakfast at the inn with Myron, a Latin-americanist PhD from Georgia State doing research for a book on gender, class and Guatemalan literature. Not my field, yet found his conversation absolutely fascinating! We had breakfast in the garden and while he had the Guatemalan typical, I had my usual, the granola with fruit and yogurt. I make the granola, and if I may say so myself, I believe it is pretty good.

Breakfast at the inn

I cannot cook to save my life, but a few things I can make, and one is granola.

In the end, it is soooo pleasant to talk books and general nerd-osity with visiting scholars from abroad. Myron liked the inn. It really is ideally situated for scholars (half a block from the General Archives of Central America). The man loves the historic center as much as I do and knows it well. Plus, he's really such a great guy.

Traditional Guatemalan fare at Arrin Cuan

Also visiting from abroad were my nephews and nieces who hail from the US, Australia and Argentina, all came at the same time, so we took them to a nearby restaurant specializing in Guatemalan typical fare, Arrin Cuan, and they loved it. They spent a lot of time taking pictures of the food and nary a crumb was left on a plate!

In general, this will be a busy week. I have taken on another (paid) consulting project, have also been invited to join the Tourism Planning Committee of the Historic Center of Guatemala ... up to now, we've mainly just had meetings and done very little planning, but hopefully that will change ... so have meetings and night events every day of the week ... life can become very lively here, very quickly, with what amounts to really very minimum effort ... can't complain, can't complain.

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ENJOY ...

This is a video which is definitely worth watching, produced by Guatemalans Ivan Castro, a very talented photographer and Ranferí Aguilar, a musician of worldwide renown since he used to form part of the iconic rock band Alux Nahual decades ago. Some may not remember, but Alux Nahual used to sell out stadiums and concert venues all over the world, including the USA. Both Castro and Aguilar are now producers and this is a sneak prewiew of an interactive book to be produced, I believe, by an arts and culture foundation. Enjoy!

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In the Historic Center of Guatemala City

INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF SCULPTURE IN THE HOUSE

Facade of Museum of Modern Art

This weekend we went to check out the International Festival of Sculpture taking place in the gardens of the Carlos Merida Museum of Modern Art. I have kept away from newspapers and dire news and immersed myself in art. My blood pressure has benefited from this.

So, on to the festival.

Twelve famous sculptors from around the world were invited and taken to a marble quarry to select any piece they wanted. And then they have like 3 weeks to complete their designs, their efforts open to the public. And the public has arrived in droves!

Free entrance and free parking, and people take their lunch hours or after work to arrive repeatedly, just to watch the daily progress. Then, the public casts a vote for their favorites.

International Festival of Sculpture

Guatemalan museums close on Sundays, which I find preposterous, and the numbers of people coming on Sunday to this event just show that opening the museums on Sundays would be a great success.

So, you get there and they give you your a ballot. You can buy a mask for less than US$1. Do not think that you can brave it without the mask, because these artists are blasting a helluva amount of marble dust everywhere. It is fascinating to see how they carve out fingers, grooves, shadings, etc., from the hardness of the marble with their electric saws.

A be-masked moi in front of artist Basil Watson at work

I wore very loose clothing and that was smart. It was like wearing a small tent on me. The afternoon was blustery and this way, one is better protected from the intensely dusty wind. I cannot even begin to tell you how stiff with dust my hair was when we left! One spends hours afterward scratching white stuff out of one's scalp.

Guatemalan sculptor Eduardo Sac and his team

Of course they aren't doing this epic labor all by themselves; they've brought over collaborators or helpers or aides de camp or whatever it is they are called in the art world. The Guatemalan sculptor had the largest crowd of watchers, and it was nice to see the support. Life in general is difficult for more artists, financial-wise at least, but in countries like this one, you can multiply that by a factor of, like, 100.

Liliya Pobornikova from Bulgaria at work on her piece

Some of the artists are older, in their 50s and 60s, and already well-established, such as Basil Watson (Jamaica), Attila Rath (Rumania?) and Nicolae Fleissig (Germany). The latter gentleman has become quite a sensation because he never takes his pipe out of his mouth while he works. The public seems to love it and it has been published in the daily papers, as well.

Ivane Tsiskadze at work

Well, the papers have been following the event on a day-to-day basis, so it has become quite the citywide phenomenon! It is interesting to note that all have their quirks. The young woman artist from Brazil, for example, works with heavy duty earphones, listening to music. And Liliya Pobornikova is impressively young. I don't believe she is quite 30 yet.

Basil Watson at work on his piece "Root"

My husband's father used to sculpt as a hobby and my husband has taken up the habit, attending sculpture classes here once a week. Hey, it's better than smoking! When he left that habit, it had to be something else. Anyhow, the man was really enthused. We both liked Mr. Watson's piece the best, up to now at least, although having a favorite is extremely difficult, being that there are so many really good pieces there. I have to say, I found something to like in all of them!

I checked their websites and found even more stuff to like. Therefore, when I win the lottery (soon, the voices tell me, soon!), I will buy me up a storm of International Sculpting art from all of these people and place it ... somewhere ... it'll have to be on the rooftop, I guess...

Marcia DeBernardo from Brazil with her piece "Florada"

So the art scene has been picking up momentum on this side of the river and pretty much coincided with my arrival here so ... well, I guess I should definitely take credit for it! That is just the kind of person who I am, self-deceived and megalomaniac, happy in my delusions of grandeur. No neurotic Woody Allen Jewishness for me, I dwell happily free within the vast confines of my hefty ego.

So, what else?

Carlos Merida National Museum of Modern Art

Day before yesterday two friends visiting from the US came to lunch. I had forgotten it is Spring Break! Inbal, who is in my same doctoral program and Myron, a grad students in Linguistics, specializing in French.

This is sad. I am becoming one of those expats who become exhilarated every time I get to speak in English with people from my own work environment, especially my alma mater. I thrill to the sounds of spoken Englishness. Inbal is an Israeli-American woman and Myron's parents are from Huehuetenango but he grew up in the USA and is now a full-fledged citizen. I have known Inbal for a while now, and truly love her almost-childlike adventurous spirit.

They had decided to explore the historic center. Being that it was the International Women's Day, they had a ball watching the marches and all. That added to the interesting sightseeing. I am always glad when I meet people who enjoy this area as much as I do, though of course I warned them about using the buses from certain routes and deviating from certain areas.

It is not like one is going to be attacked at every corner, but it is also smart to be prudent. Big crowds mean lots of pickpockets and petty thieves. The Holy Week processions here draw huge crowds from around the world---they are spectacular--and a word to the wise is that if possible, it is best to leave your valuable stuff at your hotel room. Just push some quetzales and/or debit card down your pocket and your camera down the other pocket, and walk out. That's what I do, at least.

View of sunset from the rooftop

(with detail of graff mural done by a Salvadorean
crew last year)

It has been a busy week ... okay, when has it not? Yet despite my pathological procrastination (I'm going native here!) I managed to finish and email my article within the deadline. Another meeting later today and then my work with the recovery project of historical neighborhood in Old City Guatemala will be wrapping up. I have gotten lots of kudos for my work there. Nice feeling. Nice. Let's just say that life doesn't suck.

I shall leave you with another view of a sunset from my apartment balcony. Sunset is my favorite time of the day. That one was yesterday.

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MORE ON ANTIGUA

Hiking the giant ruins of a monastery

Well, my daughter the athlete came to visit from the US bringing with her those treasured goodies I cannot find here, among those my preferred shampoos, conditioners, deodorants and such. Also brown sugar, which cannot really be found here except in molasses form.

Hallway of Biblioce in Antigua

I'm really into Aveda and Redken and while a limited array of these can be found here, they are triple the price than in the US. To be honest, there are perfectly good beauty and bath products here, both local and imported from the USA and other parts, but there are some things I am particular about, and one of those is shampoo. I may not care about what brand of jeans I wear or that the fruit I eat is properly washed ... but hair? Hair I care!

Gardens of Biblioce in Antigua

My daughter, known as "The Bear," accompanied me for a visit to Antigua, where I went to pick up my card from Biblioce, the immense--immense!--and beautiful research, library and educational compound established by the Embassy of Spain's Cultural Affairs office. It is a restored monastery and the walls inside maintain, as much as possible, the original wood and stone work, which is breathtaking in its loveliness.

My card from Biblioce allows me to use their audiovisual and computer technology, and borrow books for several weeks. VERY cool.

I am not sure, however, if their stuff is as scholarly or academic as CIRMA'S. It might or might not be, but I cannot vouch for it either way and since CIRMA is supported by a US university, they might be more geared towards academic research.

Fountain and gardens of Biblioce

Biblioce is not only truly beautiful and tranquil, full of lovely details all over, but it is also all wired for wi-fi, so the corridors and gardens are full of people peacefully reading on a bench or working online. while it is open to the general public, the books and computers, however, may only be accessed by card-carrying members. I strongly recommend a visit. You can go to their website by clicking here.

Garden view of El Sitio

We also visited El Sitio, another cultural space provided by the Spanish cultural affairs office, which has a beautifully appointed auditorium, cafe, gallery, library, and garden open to the public. By the way, we lucked out and were able to greatly enjoy Hans Namuth's black and white photographic exhibit, Los Todos Santeros, photographs taken in a remote Mayan village in the 1970s. AMAZING. It is a must for anybody visiting Antigua.

Photo of Los Todos Santeros by Hans Namuth

By the way, I have written about CIRMA in a previous post, but recently I have had reason to feel somewhat iffy about CIRMA, for I have talked to trustworthy people who have told me that CIRMA has tried to charge them up to US$50 for a bad quality copy of any photo in their photo library. Others have been charged US$10, which is still too much.

This is ridiculous, especially since they are not paying royalties for these photographs. At least, as far as is known. Thus, the nature of these fees is mystifying, as is the variance in the fee amount that different people are charged.

Second floor gallery
Old Cabildo of Antigua

Talked to a scholar visiting Guatemala City, and he told me that he has not been able to find anything useful for his line of research--on a colonial Central American country. Talked to a sociologist from Florida, too, and he did find some things of great interest and assured me that he enjoys visiting the place but that he hasn't looked for specifics, just more "perusing" some of their publications. As for myself, I did find a couple of books I can definitely use and have found nowhere else, but not a great many.

So there have been both positive and negative comments from others and this has been reflected in my own personal experiences. Either way, I find the photo charges truly excessive, especially for scholars who are more often than not on some stipend. I hope that enough people have protested so that they really re-assess their mission and the nature of these fees.

Elderly men napping at the plaza

I also find that their system is cumbersome in the sense that you cannot look through their books and photographs at will, because there is a lot of gate-keeping involved and you get only the few books that you specifically request. Photocopies are not cheap, either, and photographing the books are not allowed, so it is a real stain on the wallet to do serious research there.

I have to say, though, that their space is absolutely lovely and their computerized cataloging system is a blessing in these parts. The library is open free of charge to everybody. Anyhow, I offer here the good and the bad, so that those interested in visiting their research center know what to expect.

Detail, ruin of Convent of Santa Clara

We went to a church there and were amazed to find many penitents on their knees, I mean, walking on their knees, from the door of the church all the way up to the altar and then crawling backwards, on their knees, back again to the entrance. My own knees were hurting just to look at them do this.

I felt uncomfortable photographing them, but took a covert one, without flash and without showing her face. One woman made me sad, because she was praying loudly and demanding emphatically "Lord, look at me, I am here, I ... am ... here!" and there was such a sense of desperation in her broken plea that it made the hair on my neck stand on end.

Penitent in Mayan attire, walking on her knees

Interesting also that they bring offers of fruit and flowers, placed at the feet of a Jesus statue, same as they do with the Maximon (also known as Saint Simon, but not really a saint in the usual sense of the term) and other saints and idols born from the amalgam of Catholicism and Mayan religion. I don't see how placing fruits and flowers is significantly different than lighting candles, and it looks very colorful. Churches here seem very "mystical" ... dark, redolent of incense and flowers, floors often still lined with flagstones...

Fruit and flower offerings at feet of Jesus statue

What my daughter and I liked best was this giant painting. The statues are breathtakingly lovely, carved in the 1600s. More fascinating still is that it depicts hell and there are all these monk-like or priestly characters burning in hell. We were very intrigued!

Giant painting of hell with 16th century statues

I anybody knows why these monks are supposed to be burning in hell, please tell me! Dying of curiosity to learn the story behind this here. This church is part of a huge monastery, so it may have been a warning to the monastery residents not to misbehave, or else.

Close-up of monks in hell

For lunch we went, as usual, to La Cuevita de Los Urquizú, a family-owned restaurant where for about US$10 you can have a main serving of steak, chicken or one of the stews of traditional Guatemalan cuisine, plus 2 side dishes and a tamalito. It really is more for the locals than the tourist trade.

Selection of side dishes at
La Cuevita de los Urquizú

There is something for all tastes at La Cuevita. Somebody brave might try the revolcado (made with pork or goat's head) (I shall never be that brave!). I tend to stick to a stew such as hilachas, shredded beef in stew. Delish! I also recommend the Fonda de la Calle Real, beautiful place, pretty good traditional food, laid back ambiance. Meson Panza Verde used to be good, but haven't gone in a while after I was sorely disappointed on my last visit.

Hilachas with rice, tamal
and piloyes (red bean salad)

To get to La Cuevita de Los Urquizú just walk by La Merced church and ask any local how to get there. Next time, however, I am going someplace else to eat. There are many places I know in Antigua, but many new places I haven't gone to yet. Life is too short not to go check out new places, says I.

Talking of new places to check out...

Small cannon in Armory Museum

I had never been to the armory museum, and I am told it is somewhat new. I have been to pretty much all the church and monastery ruins, and most of the museums of Antigua (and quite a few pubs) but this one I had missed. The space is beautiful and a well-preserved relic of colonial government. It is right in front of the central park, by the entrance to the Municipality.

Engraving on a large cannon

There are a few Mayan weapons, but mostly it is muskets, Spanish swords, cannons of different sizes ... a set of furniture made from old swords and muskets ... rifles too, and other colonial military paraphernalia from the time of the Conquest and afterward. Some beautifully worked.

The only thing is that it was full of tourists. They crowd people out and make lots of noise. One older gentleman from the US, on hearing us speak in English, sort of attached himself to us and was loudly admiring everything. We reached the torture chamber and he said admiringly "Wow, these really used to exist way back when, huh?"

I wish people wouldn't make those kinds of comments, sometimes. I was like, What did you think? That they didn't? (sigh!)

The alleged torture chamber

We were commenting later with my daughter that we should have actually said "Well, we have some in Guantánamo, way back now, you know" but ... I really don't care to argue with strangers all that much. I used to. But one gets tired and really, to each her or his own.

Frankly, seemed like he was only trying to make conversation. And he seemed nice and so happy to have found English speakers! As if Antigua weren't full of US retired expats! It's starting to look like an American retirement community, y'all. And that, by the way, IS a bit creepy. Not because of the old people per se, I actually like old people, but because... it is Antigua but now it is also this surreal US retirement community ...

Anyhow, I am not sure if that particular "torture chamber" was for real or staged as some sort of tourist draw. I am not a weapons fan by any means, but the museum has some very interesting elements. By the way, most of the museums charge a Q.5 to enter, which is much less than US$1.

Coat of Arms, Armory, Antigua

So, that was about it for that day, at least as concerns to culture. The rest was spent shopping. Great thing that now there is this very cool and comfy shuttle service that comes by the inn and takes us to Antigua in a jiffy!

I have been commissioned to write an article for a limited-edition history and photography book. Deadline in two days and I have written about 4 sentences! Story of my life. Always rushing towards some looming deadline.

This commission came right when we had the inn filled to the gills with several groups one week and the next, with groups coming from across the border in several directions for the Metallica concert which was, by the way, ginormous. The venue was packed with thousands. Very cool.

Upcoming concerts coming are POD, Guns and Roses and, I hear, Aerosmith too. Not too bad, wouldn't you say? Nevertheless, there is some melancholia floating around, as always, after The Bear went back home ...

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In the Historic Center of Guatemala City