OF OLD MONASTERIES AND DEATH METAL

Ruins of XVII Century Monastery, Antigua Guatemala

The political scene in this country is a never-ending telenovela, y'all.

First, the famous Rosenberg case, in which an upper-class lawyer was gunned down, having left a video behind with himself in it, stating that if the video was aired, it meant he had been murdered by order of the president and some of his cabinet members.

Became big cause célebre. Mass protests. International coverage. Mind you, nobody is directing mass protests for the bus drivers in marginal areas who get gunned down every single day!

Anyhow, an international commission led by the European Union conducted an investigation and found that--I kid you not--Rosenberg had orchestrated his own death, down to hiring the sicarios who gunned him down and faking the death threat calls he kept receiving. Real or not real, can't deny it is a soap opera. Either way, end of story.

Ex-president Portillo smirking outside the courthouse

Meanwhile, the former president of the nation, Alfonso Portillo, had been extradited from Mexico to face huge corruption and fraud charges in Guatemala. Things like diverting hundreds of millions of dollars destined for poor children's meals and public education, to his private offshore accounts. Same old, same old.

He walked into the courtroom for his arraignment--all smiles and smirks--the judge pronounced a fine for one million quetzales--something like 120,000 US dollars--Portillo pulled the check (clearly previously written out for that amount and signed) from his breast pocket and handed it to the judge, turned around smiling and walked out, a free man.

He walked out smirking and giving thumbs up sign, as if he were some skanky rocker bailed out after being arraigned on a petty drug charge. The ensuing scandal seemed to make him even more gleeful.

Ex-president Portillo smiling outside the courthouse

Well. He was running up and down the nation, playing at being a future congress representative (Guatemalan politics, the gift that keeps on giving), when the US government filed an extradition motion against the man. Something about using US banks and offshore banks to launder money.

Instead of laying low, in his arrogant foolishness, he walked around bragging that he had congressmen in his pocket, that he would not be arrested and so on. Well, his friends and protectors must have felt the heat too much, because he was turned in and arrested, like a common felon, just this week.

Look at the picture below! Big difference from his cynical smirking of the first arraignment. Big.

Ex-president Portillo under arrest, on his way to jail

Well. It remains to be seen if he is actually extradited to the US, but my guess is that chances are good that he will be.

He has become poison to his political amigos--heard about what happens to good weather friends?--and I don't think anybody feels like taking any heat for him. Acting in-your-face cynical when it is only Guatemalans looking on is one thing, getting away with it when the US government bears down hot and heavy is another.

Sad, but that's the way the cookie crumbles around here. At least it has been an amusing denouement. Thing is, all governments here have behaved this way and the present one appears to be no exception, so it'll be interesting to see what happens when this administration is over.

Vault at monastery ruins in Antigua

One wonders what would happen if unethical law-breaking bankers in the US were also prosecuted thus. But we know what happens. What the hell, we just bail them out with taxpayers' money. And frankly, I don't even have the energy to get mad anymore.

Anyhow.

I thought you all might enjoy these pictures of vaults, cellars and such in the XVI century city of Antigua. I am not sure what that vault above used to be, but it is huge, with a very tall ceiling.

Window on vault

These have tall windows through which cold, bluish light filters in. Being built with thick walls of stone, the temperature is chill, dark and moist. I am sure you had already figure that one out.

XVII Century monastery ruins

If you look at the picture above--the window, more precisely--you can appreciate how thick these stone walls are. The light coming through the windows, then, is not widely disseminated across the interiors, but constrained by thick walls, it comes through in narrow shafts of light which appear milky and diffuse.

Window in XVII Century monastery ruins

This monastery was immense and big on interior gardens which, from the looks of it, served also as orchards and kitchen gardens. Some rooms did seem to have wide windows meant to allow lots of clarity inside, and these were, usually, the common rooms, such as the reading rooms, work rooms and such.

Entrance to cellars, XVII Century monastery

The entrance above is to the cellars--perhaps to store wine and such--but they were too low for me to feel like walking/crawling in. The ground has risen a lot through the centuries, and covered a great deal of the walls and floors, so that the entrances have been "lowered." And people used to be shorter, too.

Plus, lets just say I am somewhat afraid of bats and tarantulas in there.

Entrance to catacombs

Wow! Pres. Obama is stating, as I write, that students who have graduated will/shall/should get their student loans forgiven after 20 years if they work in public service. I may have heard wrong--I confess to not paying too much attention--but having some hefty student loans of my own, I would love that!

One thing to say it, though, and another to have it come true. Politicians, right and left, are big on making promises they do not keep. And by the time 20 years pass, I will be more concerned with retirement than student loans ...

Entrance to catacombs

Back to the ruins. The catacombs had a wider and taller entrance, so I did dare try that one. The entrance is kind of low, but once inside--as opposed to the cellars--the ceiling is tall and vaulted. I tried to imagine how lovely it must have looked, with candles flickering off the walls.

Inside catacombs

I don't quite understand why there were so many entrances to this one, unless some of them were originally windows. After all, only one entrance had steps. But even as windows they would have been set too low. Yet some start a bit above ground, so who knows. One of those things that sort of nag at me, but I accept that I may never know the reasons why. Do any of you know?

Inside the catacombs

I enjoy all the comments people leave, especially when they shed light on some mystery. So my sincere thanks to all who comment and send emails.

I will return to Antigua next week and will have more information on research centers and archives there. I didn't have time to visit them all last time, and some where closed. But keep posted, there is more to come.

Meanwhile, still working on incorporating ten more pages of "methodology explication" into my dissertation and--so promises my dissertation chair--the dissertation will be done and ready to be turned in to the other committee members. So it is all on me, now.

Small fountain, XVII Century monastery ruin

Have I had time for those ten pages of methodology description? No. Been overwhelmed with work. This includes setting out lots of potted and hanging plants around the hallways in the building, some rattan chairs and so on. I like to sit around plants and read, so I figure other people might, too. Hence, lots of plants, books and magazines everywhere. Making granola for guests and haus-frau-ish things of that nature.

This was exciting though. The metal band Death Before Dishonor, from Boston, came to stay with us for some bigass concert they gave here. Very cool guys, some of them had full sleeves of very artsy tattoos. Below you can see a YouTube video of this band, which you may (or may not) enjoy:



I have several nephews who have their own bands, from mainstream rock to metal, so I am sort of exposed to this genre. Not my daily cup of tea, I admit, but I can listen to it on occasion and have a good time.

This is interesting. We have had many rock bands staying with us over time. We have never had a problem with rock bands acting rowdy, but we have had a bit of a behavioral problem with traveling businessmen on occasion! I am told, however, this is a problem of hotels worldwide and thankfully, it has never really been an out-of-hand problem for us.

There seems to be a big--if informal--reggae festival of sorts in the historic center since the beginning of the year, with many reggae bands coming over for concerts, reggae parties, etc., in all the bars and pubs of downtown Guatemala. Went to one recently (see below) and it was pretty good. The best band, Culto Público, creates original music, and I like that.

Reggae band Culto Público of Guatemala

This weekend promises more of the same, us going to pubs to listen to bands at the multi-venue Reggae Festival. We keep bumping into friends from around the world who live here, Guatemalan and foreigners, so it is always fun. We never know who we'll see.

Most people in the area, nationals and foreigners alike, tend to be artists, writers, journalists, photographers, graphic designers or academics. Or an admixture of any of these.

Downtown Guatemala has very much become the fermenting center of arts in the capital city, and I like it that way. It is not frou-frou artsy, but still bohemian, local and raw. I hope it keeps getting better without gentrifying obnoxiously. But only time will tell...

I shall leave you with a picture of sunset as viewed from my balcony and wish you all peace and health. Thanks for visiting.

www.QualityGuate.com

Bed & Breakfast - Lofts - Parking
In the heart of the Historic Center of Guatemala

Research libraries and other stuff in Antigua

Pacaya volcano smoking as seen from ruins of monastery

I have talked before of the unequaled gems of research libraries and archives in the Historic Center of Guatemala City, and today I will expound a bit on the ones available in Antigua. There is a shuttle that goes from the Historic Center to Antigua on a daily basis, and regular buses depart several times daily from El Trébol. Plenty research can be done at both places, going back and forth even on the very same day.

There are several research libraries which have opened decades ago and are opening currently in Antigua, managed by some US academic institution, some non-profit organizations, as well as the one managed by the Embassy of Spain. All are reputed to be good. I went to Antigua to visit all of them and discover others, and I will post all of the information I got on this blog.

I also visited several ruins from the 17th and 18th century, especially those of the monastery of San Francisco. AND I had lunch in Antigua. Dismal experience. More on that later.

Church of San Francisco

This is the façade of the aforementioned church which, I should add, is amazing. I didn't go inside, having been there often before, but it is chock-full of Baroque paintings darkened by age and smoke. The magnificent monastery right besides it is in ruins and that one I hadn't visited.

I was here because I read that the church has a little library which holds some really great historic records available for research.

The complex holds the tomb of Saint Pedro de Betancourt, widely revered as a patron saint of charity for the sick and destitute. No big fan of wikipedia but, for this, I think it'll do, so if interested in his short bio, click here. I must warn, though, that the wikipedia story is missing big chunks of important stuff, but at least gives a barebones idea of the facts. If facts they are.

Detail of Church of San Francisco

All these ruins may now sport an "eggshell" color palette, but upon close inspection it is clear that the saints on the façades used to be brightly colored in rich hues, the garments reflecting textile prints or embroidery.

Detail of façade of Church of San Francisco

Here is another detail from the façade. No idea who this saint or personage is, but I have seen hats like that on pictures of Sancho Panza (the sidekick of El Quixote or The Man of La Mancha). Yes, I have read the book (illustrated) because I am a nerd like that. Okay Trudy, just say it like it is; it was a high school assignment. Not something I chose to do.

Still. Interesting read.

And not saying that this hatted figure is Sancho, of course, but must date from the same period, late 1500s or early 1600s, perhaps. Taking a wild, wild guess, the book on his hand must be the Bible.

Mural on the 17th Century monastery ruin

Not sure what this 3-saint allegory represents, but it's pretty cool. I wish I were "in" to the going ons. I'm most definitely not a religious person, and much less a Christian, but I have to say that the murals, paintings and statues in many of these historic churches in Latin America are breathtaking in beauty and because they are quite old, they have that dusty and mysterious quality in them that only truly aged places have.

Detail on vaulted roof of ruins of monastery

Here, however, I am mostly concentrating on the ruins themselves. I got there early in the morning and managed to go through the whole place without the usual noisy gaggles of tourists in crowds. Problem is, these monasteries, their cells, catacombs and cellars, were all quiet places when lived in and thus, always meant to be beautiful and silent (unless it was prayer time and such). So one can't really "get" them if surrounded by a madding crowd.

Detail on vaulted roof of ruins monastery

The exquisitely detailed work still possible to find in the architecture is, at least to me, enthralling and fascinating. Interesting mixture of medieval, Moorish and renaissance elements. Since they were created by enslaved Mayans, there is plenty of mestizaje going on there as well. Not being an Art Historian, however, I cannot really speak with deep knowledge.

Detail of vaulted roof of ruins of monastery

One thing that caught my attention, though, is that there are many archangel figures and siren figures too. Don't know if and how these are related. Sirens used to have negative connotations, so I don't know.

Under vest belonging to the Saint Brother Pedro de Betancourt

So, there is a series of stuff that used to belong to Saint Pedro, including his undergarments made of rough rope-like material. Don't mean to be disrespectful here, but they look like the kind of shorts and wife-beater basketball players wear nowadays, only they are made of a kind of macramé with a rough type of hemp. Loose, comfy underwear made of brutally chaffing material? I couldn't get a photo of those because we weren't allowed to take pictures with flash and the place where they hold the relics is quite dark.

Implements used by Saint Pedro for self-flagellation

Soooo ... they also have photographs of the skull and skeleton of the saint, who was dug out some years ago, I am not sure I quite understood why ... seems like it was for the photo op ... or something. Said photographs are encased in glass, as are the implements he used to flagellate himself with till he bled. This is the part that really fascinates me about Catholicism, the thing for relics and penitence. I also am fascinated by Freud's take on that kind of penchant. But I digress.

Crutches left by believers

There is a big, vaulted sanctuary full of crutches and testimonials, thousands of them, covering ceiling to flag-stoned ground, from devotees grateful for his curative powers.

I like this saint, though, because he was one of life's underdogs--suffering life-long from what we'd know recognize as a learning disability--and having been a soldier of fortune and many other things, he became completely dedicated, at the end of his life, to help the world's underdogs.

Portrait of Saint Pedro de Betancourt

I must add, as a scholar, that there is growing interest in the academic field for the life of this sainted man and, most importantly, the cultural and historical context within which the worship has developed throughout the centuries.

I assume it is similar to the growing scholarly interest in religion, nationalism and the personages of Juana Inés de la Cruz (the poet nun of Mexico), the Virgin of Guadalupe and even St. Joseph, Jesus's stepfather.

So. On to the libraries.

Portrait of the 17th Century Saint Pedro de Betancourt

I visited the catacombs, cellars and other of San Francisco which, by the way, also has historic archives and a small history library--but as I said, the latter was closed. I shall return in a week or two. The cellars and catacombs were damn cool.

Bell tower, Church of San Francisco

I also managed to sneak into an area forbidden to the public, into the reconstruction/renovation works of the Capitanía General (Colonial Audience/Administration). There is a part open to the public and another one that is very mysterious-looking, which isn't. Workers were at lunch and didn't seem to care, so I could sneak in and take some pictures, which was fun.

There is a narrow and dark little staircase, reputed to be haunted, which goes to the Colonial jail. It is dark, dank and creepy, but then, most buildings of the time were dark and dank.

Granai & Townson Public Library

There was a library on my list, the nicely appointed Public Library of the Granai & Townson Bank, funded by the aforementioned bank. It is nice, it has a lovely view of the Central Plaza, Cathedral and Capitanía General, and it is a nice place to go spend some time seeking shelter from the heat and look up general stuff. Lots of reference books and encyclopedias. That is about it. A pleasant little place to take a break from the heat or look up something quick. On the second floor, right besides the bank in front of the park.

View from Granai & Townson Public Library

Cirma (Centro de Estudios Regionales de Centro América), however, is one of the research library heavyweights of Antigua. It works in partnership with the University of Arizona and is oriented to the international researcher. As such, it offers books and publications on Latin America-related topics within the disciplines of history and social sciences.

One of the main advantages I found is that it has a pretty good searchable database, quite user-friendly as well. Elemental as that may seem in another country, that is a big plus here, because most libraries still operate on the basis of typed-cards and typed catalogs full of handwritten additions or deletions which often make no sense.

CIRMA

The process of getting the books at CIRMA, however, is somewhat cumbersome. Once one has found the publications one wants to look up, one has to fill out a blank piece for each one, request it, and they get it. This is the same for their archive of photographs, which takes away a lot from the research in the sense that a great deal of what comes out of research is to be able to peruse, by oneself, the bookshelves and the photographs instead of having somebody collate everything for one.

One researcher who has used the photographic archive told me that the people in charge of gathering the photographs for the historic period he requested weren't versed in his discipline and topic, so the results were unsatisfactory for him. Plus, they weren't very punctual either. But, okay, this is Latin America. Forget punctual, it doesn't just happen.

Moreover, some people have been told that they charge US$10 per copy of photo and some others that the charge is US$50. I was told that "usually" it is "around US$10" and that photocopies are 5 quetzales, which is about US$0.75 per copy, over 10 times higher than it would cost in the USA. This means some serious hardship on the budget-conscious researcher--which tends to be most researchers.

These things aside, however, the building is lovely and quiet, and also very conveniently located. It is surely a pleasure to read there for hours and then just step out for a bite to eat. It is right across the street from the Cathedral and surrounded by cafes. Check out their website for more information.

The AECID building (Spain's Agency of International Cultural Development)

The Iberoamerican Program for Specialized Technical Formation (that is a long name to basically say it is a research documentation center) opened a huge--and I do mean HUGE--research, cultural and education center in Antigua, which is funded by plentiful euros via the Embassy of Spain. Its research library center is called BiblioCe and it offers a membership loan library and excellent outreach educational programs, among many other goodies.

Entrance to AECID building
(also known as Cooperación Española or Spanish Cooperation)

The scope of the organization is impressive. The building houses the research library and also an audiovisual library, a children's library, a reading room and computer room. This is not all, it is a very large and deep 2-story building with an art gallery, classrooms and who knows what else. Just HUGE.

All of this is available to members and membership is free. Moreover, this is the only institution of this type which allows members to borrow several books for a couple weeks. Most other institutions require readers to use the books and documents only within the premises.

Library gallery, BiblioCe

So of course, I immediately proceeded to become a member. Not only is it free, but it is also fast. They require one to print out and fill out a form, which you can do by clicking here (scroll down till you find "formulario"), provide a photocopy of your passport or cédula de vecindad, and thats it. They take a picture and create a library card or carnet. So civilized! A breath of fresh air in the usual sea of Kafkaesque bureaucracy which is the norm around here.

Section of the Audiovisual Library

I could not check out the catalog because I had already spent a lot of time trying to get photocopies in Antigua. A nightmare. I had to go to 6 places--six!--which offer photocopies and at none of these was the machine in operation! It seemed like a joke, but anyhow, I did have time to peruse the stacks and they seem pretty good. I also like that they have all the daily newspapers.

Library stacks at BiblioCe

Have I ever mentioned how overpriced everything is in Antigua which caters to expats and tourists? I know Antigua like the palm of my hand, as I spend lots of time there and have done so for decades. I sometimes go to the popular party places too, Casbah, Monoloco, Reilly's, etc. etc. Very been there, done that.

But on this day, every time I bought a bottle of water, I was suddenly hit by how the local economy has inflated to reflect the influx of dollars and euros. I think I noticed because for once, I was paying cash rather than plastic.

Café Condesa in front of the Central Plaza

Partly it was my fault. I had lunch at one of the cafes around the park, which are pretty much all tourist traps, this one called Café Condesa. AVOID IT. It is really nice but overpriced and the food was simply crappy. It gets overcrowded with groups of tourists who bustle and bump around and make long lines at the bathroom. Nothing against tourists, as I am often one myself, but when in large groups they carry with them lots of noise and commotion.

One of the best places to eat in Antigua is the famous Cuevita de los Urquizú, where anybody who goes there once, keeps on going forever. I have talked about it on another post, so I won't go into it, but the fare is cheap and the food is great and abundant, the place cool, and the crowd truly a mini United Nations. Mesón Panza Verde is expensive but used to be pretty good and we would go often. However, last time we were very disappointed. Maybe it was bad luck, but don't feel like returning. There are other great places, but that is not the topic of the day.

Back to the libraries, now.

One of the interior patios of Cooperación Española building

The last library I checked out that day was the one right beside the Cathedral, called Biblioteca Francisco Antonio de Fuentes y Guzmán. Yep, that is the guy so trashed by Martínez Peláez in his seminal book La Patria del Criollo, so important as a key to understand Guatemalan history and society, and important to cultural studies in general.

It is a small library and has some really interesting 19th Century out-of-print novels in Spanish, French and so on, dating back to the early 19th Century. Turns out that it is a library long familiar to students working on their theses relating to Guatemalan and Central American literature from past centuries.

That is not all it holds, however.

Antigua's Cathedral

It has some sets of encyclopedias dating back to 1878 and the 1890s, and an interesting set of official compilations of laws dating back to late 19th Century and the early 20th Century. There are, of course, newer encyclopedias and such, but I thought that the older ones were more interesting.

Entrance to Library by the Cathedral
Biblioteca Francisco Antonio de Fuentes y Guzmán

The library, which was founded in 1960, does not have a website, but opens Monday through Friday from 2 pm till 8 pm, and Saturdays from 9 am to 1 pm. It is right besides the Cathedral, actually attached to it, facing the park.

Like most libraries in Guatemala, it does not loan books. The place, however, is comfortable enough that one can sit and read there for hours. Believe me, I know. I immediately got engrossed in a French romantic novel from mid-1850s and next thing you know, a whole hour had passed!

Compilation of laws, early 20th Century

I found a really cool book--the width of a brick--on Antigua's architecture with plenty of photos and illustrations from before the earthquake of 1976, when so many things got destroyed.

I can see how this would be a great place for anybody interested in 19th Century novels, especially those out of print, as well as History of Guatemalan Literature--many resources on that!--some serious political history and/or just for the sheer love of being surrounded by old books.

Interior of library by the Cathedral

You may have noticed that the building of Cooperación Española had an old church ruin attached to it. I have to comment on it, because this is such a neat thing that they do.

Detail of church ruin façade, Cooperación Española

This is a ruin which--like many in Antigua--has been condemned, which means that it is too unstable to be safe, so they just close them up. Too expensive to fix, too. Well, the Spanish government is repairing this one, and they are re-hauling all of the insides and recovering all the painted façades. These people are from Europe, so I'm sure they are good at repairing old churches.

Detail of church ruin façade, Cooperación Española

A lot of tourists were hanging around trying to get a look inside, including me. By the way, made friends with a group of British tourists there for the day. A strange phenomenon is how one makes friends more easily when outside one's country.

See the clothing on the figures on the photo? They have vestments like it, in real cloth, in several museums in Antigua, some around 300 years old.

Detail of church ruin façade, Cooperación Española

Today something very cool happened to me. Returning from a bookstore in which I found a book published in France in 1886 with the title "Encyclopedia of a Lady's Labors" and the most amazing hand-detailed illustrations, I happened upon one of our guests waiting for his taxi to the airport.

He is a scholar who had come to do research in the archives close to us. He was very interested in my old book and conversation ensued.

Long story short, turns out he has a PhD from abroad and directs a doctoral department of the main university in Costa Rica, renowned as being one of the best of Central America. He is not only a renowned scholar himself, but has had several novels published and is also an awarded painter who has had shows in several countries. How cool is that??? I love meeting people like this all the time around here. We made friends and exchanged emails. And so it goes!

Dissertation is at the last level now and I wish I could just be done with it already. Soon, they tell me, soon. So similar to the Guatemalan mañana. Meanwhile, I am going to go register in art school classes (again!) tomorrow. From doctoral candidate to art student. The strange turns of life.

Next post will have the photographs of the catacombs and cellars in Antigua. Pure fun, my friends, pure fun. Meanwhile, I shall leave you with one last picture of the interior patios of the Cooperación Española building. Isn't that such a cool place to go do research?

www.QualityGuate.com

Hotel - Lofts - Parking

In the Historic Center of Guatemala City

DOWN THE ROAD OF GHOSTLY PLANTATIONS

Lake Atitlán

Very busy lately. Have had to work on dissertation (reading some painfully dense stuff sent by my committee chair), work on the consulting job I have with the Historic District of the City of Guatemala (meetings and lots of writing/editing for a historic neighborhood recovery project funded by the E.U.) and have been doing other work projects as well.

Some of my daily activities are fun. I was contacted (again!) by a graff writer from North America--last time it was someone from Canada, this time I am not sure if it is Canada or the US--turns out he has gone to 90+ countries around the world to do his thing and wants to meet Graff artists from Guatemala.

Guy's username is Demo (I think) and he says that another graff artist friend of his told him about me. Not sure what! I like the genre and have gotten to befriend some Central American crews. But that is the extent of it.

Boarded-up adobe farm house

Either way it was fun to put him in contact with some of the local artists and everybody seems happily excited with the prospect of an international collaboration of graff writers in order to paint a mural or two. Those things can be fun. I will post pictures if and when it occurs. In case you were wondering, these guys spray on property they've been allowed to paint.

I don't know about Demo, though. From what I have seen from his work, this guy--the North American graff artist--is really into tagging freight trains. If so, he'll be sorely disappointed, as all freight trains here are in the Train Museum located in the Historic District. I seriously doubt he'll get to tag those!

Entrance to a coastal plantation

As promised, however, I post here photos of the road trip returning from the region of Sololá in the highlands driving eastward back to the city, via the coastal highway. The one full of abandoned and boarded-up fincas. A finca can be a plantation, a ranch and even a farm. The scale of most of the ones we saw, though, seems to put them in the category of plantation or ranch.

Ruins of church in forest

While still in the highlands and descending towards the coast, we began seeing abandoned farmhouses. The first one (adobe house with clay tile roof) has a sign showing that the land will soon be developed into a gated townhouse complex.

Also drove by an old abandoned church high up in a hill and surrounded by forest. Had to stop and go check it out, of course. In order to do so, I had to jump a wide ditch and climb through very uneven terrain. Mind you, I was wearing handmade Swedish clogs. This was, I assure you, an heroic endeavor.

Moi walking up to the ruins
(photo taken by Da Man)

The place was romantic in an Edgar Allan Poe fashion, sort of like, you know, creepy romantic. Solitude, shady, lots of birds and crickets chirping. I mean, I assume they were birds and crickets! Do snakes chirp? Not much of a country person, me, as you can tell.

The building was well on its way to sinking into the ground below or rather, the ground is raising to swallow it. This can only mean that it is very old. The whole place feels deliciously eerie.

Close-up of ruins of church in forest

With the low wages paid for man hours in this country, taking it down brick-by-brick and rebuilding it elsewhere wouldn't be absolutely unaffordable (provided I win the lottery), but, by taking it out of its environs it would lose its charm. Then again, it must be somebody's property! I wonder if it will become townhouses?

Sadly it is not mine, or I'd be spending a lot of time role-playing The Hunchback of Notre Dame there. And yes, I fully embrace the role of Quasimodo (sp?).

Entrance to a grand plantation

We drove by several plantations and eventually, we drove by this truly GRAND plantation with a big-ass stone arch a columns at its entrance. The place encompasses land on both sides of the highway. By then I had changed into hiking boots.

In a lovely caramel suede, my Timberlands had been, up to then, more decorative than anything else. I have a thing for Timberland hiking boots, and trust me, it is not because of their hardy reliance in the wilderness. Me and untamed nature don't love each other. It is all about the lovely shades of suede of Timberland boots. My other pair is in such a pretty "pearl gray" hue ...

Boarded-up and abandoned laborers' cabins
(at grand plantation)

Have I told you about my 3 pairs of Doc Martens? I won't assume you're interested.

So, back to the ghostly plantation.

There it was, big stone arch entrance and, at the end of the path, an old, green, manor-like main house. Not quite Tara with its majestic oaks lining the road, you know, but still very impressive. The buildings close to the highway on both sides were shuttered-up and clearly unused workers' cabins. But there was a gate and beyond the gate, the buildings there did seem occupied.

My guess is that it is a coffee plantation and they don't have a need for some many workers anymore, that they'd need to provide housing for or else, these laborers moved on to bigger and better housing to one of the nearby villages and get to work by bus. Who knows!

Boarded-up laborers' cabin and
a brick stove (where a cabin used to be)

The cabins were either brick or sturdy wood and still standing. With time, they'll just start crumbling, become overgrown by vines, and disappear. I wish one could transport these cabins to some place where they could be allocated as housing for the homeless. Small as they are--and some are tiny--most seem solid and have got to be better than sleeping on cold pavement.

Boarded-up field hands' cabins at the grand plantation

Anyhow.

Right by the highway is also a huge pool-like fountain which, despite its beauty, seems more utilitarian than decorative. I am not sure if it was used as a water source for laborers or to water horses (or both?). I don't think it is much used anymore, as the water is dark green with algae or moss (though frankly, it didn't look dirty per se, more like dark green glass).

Plantation fountain

The gates being right by it, one cannot walk further in, but the cinder block buildings beyond it, as I said before, seemed occupied and perhaps the lovely, green manor-like house at the end is too. A lot of main houses at these plantations, however, are no longer occupied year-round. With good highways and faster transportation, many landowners just moved away to the city.

Fountain head and spigot

Above, the spigot with a little chapel-like edifice probably to house a patron saint or Madonna which is no longer there. Not being a good photographer, my pictures simply do not capture the beauty and majesty of this place.

Plantation fountain

I have seen this place before. A very long time ago. Decades ago. I happen to know a ghost story related to that old house, if it is the one I remember.

In the story, the old house had been uninhabited for a long time. It has an attic which encompasses the length of the whole house--which is wooden--and some man was enchained and locked away in the aforementioned attic; left to die alone in the attic of this empty house. Don't ask me why, I only remember vaguely it was because of some sort of revenge.

Actually, having raised 3 teenagers, I have known the impulse of doing that to another human being.

Column at grand plantation entry, founded in 1901

So, as legends go, this one needs a ghost, right? So the guy died, of course, and the poor man's ghost could be heard dragging his chains along the attic moaning "I'm sooo tired, I'm sooo tired!" by people who dared to stay overnight in the premises. Tired of walking and dragging the chains.

Now, why the hell was he doing this? Oh yeah, he had been cursed! I remember now. He had been cursed to forever drag them chains. Again, don't ask me why, these stories usually make no sense. They're human, after all.

Okay, so there we have it, ghost moaning and dragging chains in the attic. Very original.

It doesn't end there.

So one day, somebody was hired to manage the place or something and stay in the haunted house. Having nothing to do, he got drunk and went to bed. I would too, if I had to live and work in the boondocks.

You know what follows. Right on cue, the ghost started doing his thing, dragging the chains and moaning "I'm sooo tired!" The new resident of the house, drunk and tired, not knowing the story about the ghost and figuring it was just some dude being bothersome, yelled "So then shut up and go to sleep already!"

Path to laborers' housing, Finca Sta. Cecilia

There was a big plop! sound, as if a body had fallen to the floor. And the ghost was never heard again. So, not sure if it is exactly this plantation house the one that is the site of this legend, but I am almost 100% sure it is. The new house resident, just trying to get some sleep, had laid the ghost to rest.

So, it is a haunted house and it isn't, since it no longer has the ghost. What's that called? The house formerly known as haunted?

Burned-down brick cabin, Finca Sta. Cecilia

Driving on, we went by several plantations, some still working, some truly impressive in their scope, others seeming halfway functional and others completely abandoned.

Wherever there was a plantation, a small village of cabins built by the plantation owners on plantation property could be seen, some still lived-in--regardless of the plantation being abandoned or not--and others clearly empty and abandoned.

The photo above is a burned-down brick cabin at a plantation which, as the inhabitants of some of the remaining cabins told us, was named Sta. Cecilia in its previous life.

Main house, Finca Sta. Cecicilia

The main house for this plantation was very big and all locked up, with white wrought-iron bars on the front porch. The people in the village--it is not even a village, it is like a few scattered cabins which are occupied and some which are empty and crumbling--told us that the farm had been abandoned a long time ago.

It may be that nowadays the lands are used for cattle to graze upon or truly abandoned, who knows. My guess is that the former might be the case. I know several plantation owners who lease their lands to others and just go live in a big town or city. Makes life easier.

Main house, Finca Sta. Cecilia

As for me, I'd love to live in a house like the main house of this plantation, if it weren't in the middle of nowhere and so close to the highway. Also, I have spent time in plantations such as these, and there are many icky things, such as big-ass spiders the size of one's hand in the showers and at night, it is pitch dark all around. Moreover, electric power is very iffy. And no wi-fi? Maybe I wouldn't like it so much, after all.

The terrain in this region was no longer hilly, but plain and covered by tropical vegetation. Instead of the all-blue of the mountain and lake region, we were in the green-and-yellow region.

Close-up of main house, Finca Sta. Cecilia

On the other side of the highway, facing the main house of Santa Cecilia, is the farm's church and barn. One of the locals told me it served both as barn and silo. Or used to be, that is, since it is now unused.

Ruins of church and barn, Finca Sta. Cecilia

It is so unused, in fact, that walking there the grass was reaching beyond my knees and one could hear quick, slithering/hissing noises which made me think of rodents and snakes. Nightmares' favorite creatures.

Thus, I got only sorta close to the church and dared not walk any further, because at that point, the grass was reaching my waist. And curious I may be, but Indiana Jones I'm not.

Ruins of church, Finca Sta. Cecilia

It may be our imagination--maybe you can see it too--but we thought that the church looked burnt down, especially around the roof, as well as the cabins which were crumbling in this farm. Blackened.

Being that during the war there were guerrillas burning down plantations, it is not inconceivable that something like this could have happened here. That may also be why landowners would prefer to lease the land and leave the premises. Perhaps they sold to bigger concerns, too.

Again, who knows, we didn't have time to stop and chat at length with the friendly people who still live there. It might make for a good research project for somebody who wouldn't mind spending time in hot, muggy, tall-grass places. I mind, so it won't be a project I will be tackling, but the mysteries involved do provoke my interest.

Ruins of church and barn, Finca Sta. Cecilia

How do the people who live here make their living? They usually work for many of the larger plantations. There is a huge one close by, a ranch with a dairy products factory which supplies supermarkets in all of the nation. All these are within biking/walking distance and buses drive by the highway constantly. They may also be small farmers, or cultivate their own garden plots even as they work for bigger farms.

In general, this region is very busy, with trucks coming and going loaded with coffee, cane, coconuts, pineapples, and corn, as well as cattle. Interestingly, as well, as one drives from the highlands to the coastal regions, one sees fewer Mayans and much more ladinos. Ladinos are, technically speaking, white people but in reality, simply almost anybody who isn't Mayan.

Laborer's cabin

The cabins above were occupied and stood right across a big coffee farm which seemed quite thriving. However, at this same coffee plantation, I found the abandoned coffee processing equipment below. Probably became obsolete and they moved on to more technically advanced processes. It's awesome, like a living museum.

Rusting and unused coffee plantation machinery

Well, it is not like I "found it", since it can be seen from the highway but again, I had to go around a ditch so wide it seemed like a small gully, then walk among tall grass and a thick mat of rotting/squishy vegetation where small unseen creatures dash here and there. It is also very warm around there. One is swatting clouds of minuscule mosquitoes all the time.

Workers seemed friendly enough that I am sure they'd allow me inside the place, but we didn't have all that much time to spend there.

Closer look of abandoned coffee plantation machinery

Looks like the equipment was powered by water and a waterwheel. In Spanish this equipment is called a beneficio de café, and it has several functions, one of them being to dry coffee beans. Okay, okay, I admit I didn't know that, I had to ask my husband. Sometimes he is useful that way.

Sometimes.

Small farmhouse in coastal region

There are also much smaller farms, such as the one above. People in these traditionally grow corn and beans, as well as some coffee. The length of the highway is lined by farms big and small and by plantations, and like I said, it is a very busy road. Though not as lovely as the highlands' highway, it is still quite interesting.

Corn field with volcano in the background

Despite it being the plains, it is also very volcanic and all this volcanic lava has made the grounds extremely fertile. This is prized soil where almost anything grows. It is sold at plant and landscape shops as excellent potting soil.

Roadside coconut stand on coastal highway

We drove by a town called Cocales (coconut groves) and, true to its name, the highway is dotted by coconut stands. Coconuts are ice-chilled, the sellers pop open a hole and give you a straw, and you slurp the fresh coconut water and then eat its soft, smooth insides. Damn, that sounds almost pornographic!

So delicious. We were hot, dusty, and very thirsty. No wonder there are cultures who believe that coconuts were provided by the gods as a gift to humanity! To us, this day, it certainly felt that way.

Cantina in small coastal town

I can't remember, for the life of me, the name of the town in the photo above, but it was dirty, ugly, nasty and thriving with commerce and industry. All of it seemed related to agro-industry. Lots of bars or cantinas, too.

Close-up of Cantina La Fe

We found the advertising mural on the cantina above hilarious. Since a great number of the population in the country is illiterate, painted signs become very important. Crucial!

Interestingly, this being more of a ladino town, the drunk who has soiled his pants is dressed in traditional Mayan garb! Lots of semiotic analysis of class/race could be done of that, but I won't. One has to push the stop button at some point in life, and I have gotten there, my friends.

Roadside store on coastal highway

I have to admit I just don't like the coastal highway as much as I like the highlands highway. The latter is just breathtakingly beautiful whereas the coastal highway is longer, hot, busier, bustling and the towns are unattractive. Yet, I prefer the coastal highway to its towns! The highways are lined with pleasant-to-regard houses, gardens, fruit stalls and friendly people. The towns, however, are just unpleasant.

Nevertheless, the experience of traversing this highway is interesting and offers opportunity for fascinating sights.

I was glad to come back home in the end. Home feels so nice when one has been away on a long road trip. Nevertheless, I am already excited about the next one! In a few days I am going to Antigua to check out some historical archives open to research. Will post you on that.

The inn has been crazy busy these days, since it is the Feast of the Lord of Esquipulas, a popular icon of Jesus with thousands of devotees from all around. Hence, thousands of pilgrims from Mexico and Central America travel to Esquipulas to pay homage to this icon. Our hotel always fills up with people from Mexico on their way there and back. Very noisy/happy crowd!

Devotees on pilgrimage to Sanctuary of Señor de Esquipulas
(from Esquipulas.com)

A great many pilgrims go in large groups by motorcycle, bicycle or even horseback, but most simply go by car or bus. I have heard that many still walk their way there, and the town of Esquipulas is far. The travel style mostly depends on the tradition and penitence involved for each individual and/or community.

All these pilgrims always make me think of Chaucer's stories, even though his period was the early Middle Ages. When it comes to human beings, some things just seem the same across time and space.

Anyhow, there are replicas of this icon in the Historic Center of Guatemala City, and the churches around us have been tolling their bells, offering processions and firework shows and concerts all day long. Those who cannot make it all the way to Esquipulas, come worship at the Cathedral and other sanctuaries.

The "Señor de Esquipulas" also has its own legend, which you can read here. The site has a picture of the icon, which is also known as "The Black Christ of Esquipulas."

So, looks like a busy weekend, since the festivities will go on all weekend long. I hope it shall be happily busy for you as well, with well-deserved rest included. Keep safe, keep in touch, and I shall do the same!

www.QualityGuate.com
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In the Historic Center of Guatemala City