AMERICANISTS GALORE

Latin America is not directly my field of scholarship, for sure, but a) I'm enthralled by history, b) I'm a book whore; hence, I promiscuously read everything, c) I've spent a good many years in Guatemala and, d) I did my undergrad senior project on contemporary Guatemalan history. Thus, the topic of Guatemala is of interest and I'm slowly gathering information to write an article on Guatemala, gender and church. Since I'm also exploring other topics, such as graffiti, this'll take a while.

But I digress.

Due to this historic interest I often attend lectures at the Academia de Geografia e Historia. Some are good, but my last experience at a lecture there was dismal (same old "grand narratives" stuff). Last night, however, I was luckier. We attended Dr. Stephen Webre's presentation (photo above). Webre spoke of his latest research discoveries (fascinating) and told a wonderful (if tragic) story. More importantly, he raised crucial questions about the role of historians and the nature and ethics of researching in archival material (photo below). Left my mind churning.

Sadly, because the auditorium was filled to capacity (not usually the case), it was steaming hot, and there was no following question-and-answer session. However ...

... it doesn't matter because happily, I was able to ask my questions from Dr. Webre personally, since we went afterward for drinks/dinner with a group which included some of the best minds in the field of Central American history. Besides Dr. Webre, the group was integrated by scholars and authors George Lovell, Alvis Dunn and Julio César Pinto Soria, all of whom, as my young historian/dissertating friend Florian Petersen (also in the group) confirmed to me, are among the best-known scholars in Guatemalan history. (Google them, google them! Google them now!)

It was a fun-filled night where I learned a lot while having a few cold beers and lots of laughs at El Portalito (photo below), a gorgeous historic bar in Guatemala's old city. It is so cool to find that these serious scholars have such a fine sense of humor and tremendous repertoire of delightful stories.

Even more ... interesting ... is that the bartenders at El Portalito greeted some of these historians by name and quite heartily too! Like long-lost friends, they were. That can only mean one thing, you know. Yes, that's right: The bartenders are all huge fans of academic research and Guatemalan history.

On the other hand, it is disheartening that most of this research is known mainly outside of Guatemala. I find in Guatemala both a hunger for new information and technology and, at the same time, a sort of closing-ranks attitude against any sort of information that challenges the ideological status quo. There are, however, seeds of enlightenment. Perhaps time and the effort of more scholars and activist will change that.

Damn. Now I ...

... must go get all their books. This book thing is like a disease, you all, I swear. I have no furniture in my apartment right now but a big bed, some floor-to-ceiling bookcases, a small old fridge. And I'm SO cool with that! Bed, books, music, a fridge filled with ice-cold Diet Coke, lots of fresh fruit, cheese and breads, and I'm set. I could just be an eating/sleeping/reading machine and do nothing else.

Just described my life.

Add a few sojourns to pubs, theaters and bookstores.

No wonder I'm shaped like the giant Buddha in Jou Jou Chinese Food just a block away.

I do contribute to the economy (however minimally), as I also have had to work at the inn. It has been getting busier. And busier. Today, for example, we're bursting at the seams and had to place a guest in an empty apartment, hurriedly furnished with a few pieces of furniture. She arrived from Germany with no reservation, but was cool with staying there at least for tonight.

We're not experienced hoteliers, to say the least, so it's often been a trial-and-error effort going on here but honestly, it has been interesting every step of the way. I think most realize we're really putting forward our best effort. Guests keep returning, and then one starts looking forward to some repeat guests who become sort of friends. Not a bad business to be in.

Today we have a lacrosse team in the house (yes, that's right, there is lacrosse in Guatemala. Marvels do occur). Also in the house this weekend, an 8-person Graff crew staying with us, some academics and NGO people. Athletes, scholars, activists and street artists from around the world, all under our roof. Can't complain, even though lately the pollution has been giving me smog cooties.

In other words, life here has its meshugas for sure, but in general, it doesn't suck.

www.QualtiyGuate.com
Hotel - Lofts - Parking
In the Historic Center of Guatemala

GUATEMALA: SCIENCE, BREADMAKING, AND GRAFFITI

There is this institution in Guatemala, INTECAP, an alliance between Microsoft, the Guatemalan private sector and the government. It is a pretty great organization, the purpose of which is to train workers in order to gain more skills and/or train small business owners and tradespeople.

Hence, they have a cutting-edge computer and digital training institution, all brand new, and bread-making, carpentry, electrician, garden design, etc., all in very new/modern/clean buildings with well-trained instructors, some of whom come from abroad. This is where CONVERCIENCIA took place, which is a yearly conference in which Guatemalan scientists living and working abroad come to Guatemala and give a week of workshops in universities. The last day they give free and public presentations of their latest research.

As you can see above, all presentations were standing-room-only. That's how full they were. There is a real hunger in Guatemala for the latest in technology and of course, the natural enjoyment of seeing fellow Guatemalans who have had great success abroad.

Below, Dr. Sergio López Permouth, Head of the Mathematics Department of Ohio University and an internationally renowned abstract mathematics researcher, gives his amazingly interesting and "user-friendly" presentation. He makes mathematics research actually sound not only very doable, but also poetic and beautiful.

Guatemalans are participating and sometimes even at the head of great research programs in the NASA, United Nations, Hydrocarbons, Genetics, Biotechnology, etc. It was of special interest to me to witness that a great many high school students were present. Moreover, I would say that 95% of these students were female. There were so many young women students there and hardly any young males, that many attendees and presenters were commenting the fact and joking that the public should just be addressed as "young women" instead of as "Ladies and gentlemen."

I do see a trend in universities were women are outnumbering the males. I was just fascinated to see that trend seemingly replicated here.

Back to trades, bread is BIG in the local gastronomy. Even at Chinese restaurants they make sure they ply you with a few slices of soft white bread. As an aside, a lot of Chinese food here has cilantro, which is more of a Latin American herb. Never had Chinese food with cilantro before!

There are bakeries on almost every block, from a tiny bakery offering a few kinds of low-grade bread to bigger bakeries that combine the best of Mesoamerican breadmaking and international staples such as baguettes and buns. Most people buy bread here twice daily, so busy bakeries will be stocked twice a day. The most popular types are pan de manteca (sweet) and pan francés ("French bread" but in buns).

Just so you know, in Guatemala quesadillas are not what we know in the US as such, these quesadillas are actually a cake-like bread made of rice flour and the very dry cheese hailing from the desert region of Zacapa. Marquezote (photo above) is made with lots of egg and vanilla. Quesadillas, marquezotes, magdalenas and zepelines are meant to be had with coffee. The latter two are sort of sponge-cakes or plain white cakes.

The one pictured above is one of my favorite, this one is called pan de yemas (egg yolk bread) and reminds me of Challah bread in taste and consistency. Less dense than the other cake-like breads and mildly sweet with a few raisins in there. There are so many types of bread here!

When I visited Montreal and Quebec City, the abundance of bakeries and types of breads reminded me very much of Guatemala. I guess it is that European colonizing influence and the love for beautiful shapes, as most breads here have aesthetically-pleasing shape. Be it as it may, I think I will be signing for some Guatemalan bread-making classes at INTECAP before I return to the US. I did see that they have a one-day class which includes pan de yemas.

This weekend promises to be fun. We'll host a graffiti crew from abroad at the hotel. They are coming for an event this weekend. We are comping their stay because I am a big supporter of graffiti writers and street art. These crews are coming in sponsored by local graff writers in Guatemala who've become friends. There are some seriously talented graff writers in Guatemala and most of their murals are done with the knowledge and acquiescence of the owners, such as the one done at our hotel by Royale 5 (photo below). Royale as in Pulp Fiction's Royale with cheese (if you've seen Pulp Fiction as many times as I've had, you know what I'm talking about). Besides the graff artists, we'll have a soccer team come in, so it'll be, I am sure, lively and noisy, but probably fun as well. Well. Veremos.

www.QualityGuate.com
Hotel - Lofts - Parking
In the Historic Center of Guatemala

Why do birds suddenly appear every time I am near?

Today I was finally able to walk to the Old Archbishopry (above) to process access to their magnificent historical archives. Because we're gearing up for another bout of renovation works at the inn--and we have to toe the Historic Center directives, as they are very strict--things have been more hectic than I am used to and my research projects have suffered.

Not that I mind so much, as shopping for curtain materials and color palettes has its fun side, but still. I've no eye for decoration, as anybody who visits my apartment can note, it's all bookshelves, books, artisanal rugs and art, lots of pillows and that's about it. Hence, I always feel put upon when dealing with remodeling, as I am sure I am going to totally screw up whatever aesthetics are supposed to be involved. What's worse, with The City watching over my shoulder making sure I adhere to their required remodeling codes, color palette, etc.

Anyhow, as I was sitting on a bench waiting for the guy in charge of the Archives to come talk to me--and he was very helpful and knowledgeable (and cute!), by the way--this obese dove jumped onto the bench and came to keep me company. Soon enough it jumped onto my lap, over the form I was filling in order to gain access to the archives. It started fluffing its feather so much it became a humongous feather ball--everybody around mas laughing!

I figured it wanted to be petted, so I started caressing it and it seemed to become very content. It never left my side during the whole procedure. Everybody was telling me "take it home, take it home!" I almost did, as I miss my cat El Mish terribly. Anyhow, like St. Francis, I seem to attract living beings of lower levels of consciousness. Some old boyfriends' I've had seem to bear this out.

The security at the Archbishopry is somewhat heightened, as it houses the Archbishop's Office of Human Rights, and it isn't that long ago that Monsignor Gerardi was murdered by the military for exposing violations of human rights in Guatemala. Nevertheless, the place is beautiful and the archives seem to be in much better order and conditions than the ones at the General Archives of Central America and the Hemeroteca (periodical's archive). Whereas the first two have original documents often falling to pieces, the Archbishopry's archives are all PDF documents and they even email them to you! NICE. 'Twas a productive day all around.

www.QualityGuate.com

Hotel - Lofts - Parking

In the heart of the Historic Center

HISTORICAL RESEARCH FINDINGS BETTER THAN A TELENOVELA

Stephen Webre, Ph.D., professor of the Department of History of Louisiana Tech University, will present fascinating historical research findings Wednesday, July 29, at 6:00 pm, in the auditorium of the prestigious Academia de Geografia e Historia (located in the Historic Center of Guatemala), an institution to which he belongs as an academic member. This research institution happens to be half a block away from us, so I am definitely not missing this one!

While searching for information on a forgotten great-grandchild of Bernal Díaz del Castillo (the famous chronicler of the Spanish conquest of Mesoamerica, whose work is one of the most valuable sources of information on the era), Dr. Webre discovered in some historic archives a document rich in previously-unknown information on Díaz del Castillo and his family.

Among the documentation found was a summary of his last will, dated 1575, a finding of great importance since no other similar document had ever been found before. However, after his initial euphoria subsided, Dr. Webre's suspicious were raised as upon closer examination, he found many instances of false information and spurious testimony. Not a very reliable document, then. But the story doesn't end there.

Scholar-turned-detective, Dr. Webre determined to continue investigating and his research uncovered an amazing story of illicit love, betrayal and abandonment in the highest spheres of society in XVII century Guatemala.

It can be surmised, of course, that the numerous instances of false testimony and fake evidence endeavoured to cover up a shaming scandal from public exposure. Nevertheless, on a deeper level, it raises fundamental questions about one of the most reliable resources for historical research: Original documents and the archives that hold them. Webre's research findings provide fascinating information yet offer, as well, a warning to historical researchers everywhere.

Anyhow, the life of Bernal Díaz del Castillo is not only fodder for sober historical research but also, as you can see below, a comic strip in German based on his adventures! Go figure. Wish they had taught history like this when I was in high school, instead of having us memorize those endless lists of dates and dry "glorious" epic wars. Be it as it may, Webre's presentation sounds truly interesting so I won't miss it and if you want to go, I'll surely see you there.

www.QualityGuate.com

Bed & Breakfast - Lofts - Parking

In the Historic Center of Guatemala

MODERN PRODUCT, ANCIENT TECHNIQUE

We were invited to the opening of the bi-annual exhibit of the Municipal School of Sculpture teachers and advanced students, which this year took place at the Popol Vuh Museum of Archaeology. The latter, by the way, is very much worth a visit.

Because the museum is in the most expensive university of the country, there was a good influx of more upper class visitors, but in general, there was a varied admixture of people in attendance. It was definitely well-attended. We were also fed very well!

The director of the school explained that the topic--and challenge--for the exhibit had been for the artists to use the ancient Pre-columbian technique of terracota pottery in the creation of modern sculpture.

It was really interesting to see the different creations of each artist in his/her re-interpretation of the topic. Clearly, many went back to research Mayan symbolism and iconography in order to shape their vision in a way which, though inevitably within a framework of a Modern vision, was faithful to Pre-columbian visual tenets as well.

This statue seems to recreate a jaguar, a totem that one finds quite often in Mayan stellae and statues. This Jaguar actually created quite a stir for its blatantly phallic aspect.

I really liked the sculpture below, a small baby-totem crawling on all fours, his breath creating the Mayan glyphs below. I wish I could read what they say.


The fertility goddess below was also pretty cool, especially because it had some beautifully carved Mayan glyphs of such delicacy that they seemed written with a needle.


This can be better appreciated below.

The sculpture below seems to recreate an orchid; by the way, the abundance of orchids natural to Guatemala and cultivated for commercial and collection purposes is truly outstanding.

Not sure what the items below represent. Cacao nuts? Breasts? It would make a very interesting centerpiece for a living room table, though.

The one below is too cool! A cat/jaguar figure sort of buried in the sand. Not too happy and holding a Mayan glyph between its paws.

I have been reading on Latin American scholars' discussions and theories of the colonizer and the colonized, and many of those arguments most definitely come into play in situations such as the creation of this collection. But though it's one of my main research interests, I won't get all Post-colonial Theory on you all today!

Mayan dancer costumed as jaguar totem below. The modern version of these still exist today, as on certain Catholic feasts, Mayan dancers will dance out whole stories--some last for hours--to the beat of drums and reed flutes, dressed in very similar garb to the one below. Also worth watching at least once.

www.QualityGuate.com

Bed & Breakfast - Lofts - Parking

In the Historic Center of Guatemala

A POOR MAN'S GARDEN

In general, I am not big on photographing flowers and as for myself, prefer very green yards with a kitchen garden. However, there is this "secret garden" here in Guatemala. In a blighted area full of abandoned maquilas, the guardian of a warehouse--a poor man, with missing teeth and half-illiterate--cultivates a garden that is absolutely unbelievable. And this is the thing: Nobody sees it! The man basically cultivates it for the sheer pleasure of gardening. Thought I'd share some of it with you today.

www.QualityGuate.com

Hotel - Lofts - Parking
In the Historic Center of Guatemala

ROOFTOP VIEWS: THE BEAUTY AND THE BLIGHT.

The following are rooftop views from the Historic Center of Guatemala City. I do this thing where I try to get on building rooftops to get to see what the city looks like from there.






The following are not all a rooftop view, but just a view that shows--I believe--that even urban blight can have its own kind of beauty and charm.

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Hotel - Lofts - Parking
In the Historic Center of Guatemala

Upcoming Intern'l Conferences in Guatemala. Mayan Archaeology and Ethnology -- Philosophy

I know the photos in this post have nothing whatsoever to do with academic affairs, technically speaking, but I just happened to like them so I took their picture. Very á la Bansky, one of them. I collect graffiti photos from around the world; just one of my ephemeral pastimes.

The 23rd Symposium of Archaeological and Ethnological Research is coming up, to take place July 13 to July 17th. Entry fees are very inexpensive, Q. 100 (around US$ 12.00 - US$15.00). This is one of the top events worldwide in Mayan studies and their website has a wealth of papers from previous conferences which can be downloaded or read online. The symposium brings international scholars of renown and is pretty well-attended. The t-shirts are pretty cool, too! I don't want to miss it.

Also coming up ...

The 8th International Congress of Philosophy, to take place at Universidad Rafael Landívar, sponsored by their departments of Philosophy and of Dance and Movement Sciences. The date: August 11th to August 13th.

The conference has been growing steadily and acquiring greater exposure and attendance, with the participation of scholars from well-established universities from the U.S. and Latin America.

This year's topic is Contemporary Conceptions of Corporality and points of view from different disciplines (Western, Mayan, Eastern, etc) will be engaged and discussed. I know some of the scholars from the US who've presented at this conference in the past, such as Dr. Michael Purdy from Governors University, whose work in the field of Listening is very well-known. Dr. Purdy will be in attendance this year as well.

I am not sure if the presentations will be in English and Spanish or only Spanish, and I think other years it has been free, but for more information, you may contact one or all of the following:

Eugenia del Carmen Cuadra at edcarmen@url.edu.gt
Sabrina Castillo at lscastillo@url.edu.gt
Ernesto Loukota at erloukota@url.edu.gt

www.QualityGuate.com

Hotel - Lofts - Parking
In the Historic Center of Guatemala